These extremely durable pumps combine high efficiency, enclosed impellers and dry-run resistant seals with the latest in motor technology to provide many years of trouble-free and low-cost service. And with this being an external pump, it helps protect both you and your fish from annoying and potentially dangerous oil or electrical leaks.
- Out-of-pond construction - NOT Submersible!
- Less than half the watt draw of comparable submersible pumps
- Units are pre-wired with an 8' cord and molded 115V plug.
- Units can now be wired for 230V.
- Housing is molded of high strength, glass filled polypropylene.
- Quiet operation
- Dry run resistant mechanical seals.
- Stainless steel hardware is standard.
- The motors are TEFC, for excellent protection.
- Rebuildable, industrial grade motors.
- FIVE year limited warranty!
Additional information
| Weight | N/A |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | N/A |
| Size | 750-3600, 750-4200 |
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- Koi Enterprise
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- Complete Quarantine Systems – The advantage of having a quarantine system far outways not having one! However, one limiting factor has always been the price of such a setup. Koi Fanatics has put together this very affordable complete quarantine tank system to take the guesswork of setting one up from scratch. This ready-made tank is a quick fix, it’s an instant complete quarantine tank system!
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- External Pond Pumps – Pumps come in an array of models and sizes. Pumps are available in both submersible and external (out-of-pond models). We can help you select the best model and connect equipment for your purposes. For the smaller pond, a submersible pump is the most economical. Pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. Larger capacity pumps are rated by horsepower (hp). It is recommended that the water in a basic pond be turned between ½ to 1 time per hour. A 500-gallon pond should have at least a 500 Gallon Per Hour pump. When sizing a pump for a pond there are a few other considerations. How high will the pump have to lift water? Will there be a waterfall, fountain, or statuary? Will there be filters? All of these variables reduce the amount of flow, which could affect water quality and clarity.
- Submersible Pond Pumps – Whether you have a preformed or a liner pond, a pond pump is a paramount component of any water feature. Pond Pumps are available in both submersible and external ( out-of-pond ) models. For the smaller pond (up to 1000 gallons of water), a submersible pump is the more economical and practical option. A Submersible pond pump can be placed directly in the fish pond and require relatively little installation. They are free of distracting noise, and for smaller ponds, can easily be utilized to drain your pond (if you hook up a hose to the output flow of the pump ). The pump is sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. It is recommended that you circulate your body of water at least once every 2 hours. Therefore you will need to size your pump to ensure that it has half the GPH rating as the volume of your pond in gallons. For example, if you have a 1000 gallon water feature, you will require at least a 500 GPH pump.
- EPDM Pond Liner – When selecting a pond liner, there is no doubt the EPDM pond liners are the best option on the market. For this reason, we carry Firestone PondGard EPDM Pond Liners, the Cadillac of pond liners. Firestone PondGard EPDM is the industry standard for 45 mil EPDM, and for good reason. Firestone PondGard is specially formulated for water gardens. It contains no algaecides & fire retardants found in roofing EPDM. You can always be sure that your pond liner is 100% fish safe if your liner has the Firestone PondGard stamp. Below are the key benefits of Firestone Pond Liner: High flexibility: Firestone EPDM Pond Liners remains highly flexible even at very low temperatures (down to –45 °C), enabling year-round installation in a variety of climates and terrain. Superior weathering resistance: Firestone EPDM Pond Liners offer unmatched resistance to ultraviolet radiation and ozone.
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- Pond Skimmers – The first step in building a pond is ensuring that waste products are efficiently removed from the system. The application of skimmers and bottom drains is essential in this regard. Pond Skimmers can remove as much as 85% of debris before it settles to the pond bottom and is the most effective way of reducing maintenance and increasing the quality of water in your pond. The addition of a pond skimmer will greatly reduce the maintenance and increase the enjoyment of your pond.
- Protein Skimmers – The effectiveness of traditional Protein Skimmers or Foam Fractionators in freshwater is restricted by the lower density in fresh water and therefore the ability to form small enough bubbles with enough surface area to attract the organic waste. Since Clarity is based on an entirely different approach, Clarity does not have this limitation. This results in superb efficiency also in fresh water and opens up many exciting applications for Clarity. Regulates the level of oxygen in water During the normal process of feeding fish and decomposing of organic matter, the level of oxygen in the water is altered. These environmental changes are not desirable for the fish and result in increased stress and unhealthy conditions. Clarity’s mode of operation restores the balance of oxygen in the water as part of the process of making the foam. Breaks down ammonia and nitrite to nitrate before foaming As the water trickles down the airing tower, bacteria fastened to bio-rings decompose organic compounds to simpler, less toxic substances. The most important example of this process is the breakdown of ammonia to nitrite and eventually nitrate. This lowers the toxicity of the compounds and results in more effective removal of organic compounds. Compatible with…
- Ultraviolet (UV) – UV Sterilization is the safest method of preventing and eliminating problems in an aquarium or pond. UV will not kill a parasite on the fish, but parasites go through a free-floating stage, at which point they are eliminated. Additionally, corals and fish can and do carry bacteria that can infect and spread throughout the tank, killing other inhabitants. The initial thinking on reef tanks was to avoid UV, to keep plankton alive. However, with the skimmers and pumps used in ponds the plankton population in the water column is virtually non-existent. You can use a UV continuously (recommended) or just keep one at the ready, in the event of an outbreak. Points to ponder about UV Sterilization Most effective when run 24/7. Most effective if the water is clear. Most effective if the bulb is new, or replaced regularly (at least every 6-8 months). Most effective if the UV light penetrates less than one inch of water. Effectiveness can be hindered if the water passes too fast past the bulb. Most effective if the exposure time of the water to the UV light is longer than one second. The effectiveness of UV light can be hindered if there is a…
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- Koi Food – A Koi’s metabolism functions best at temperatures above 70° F. High protein foods are difficult to digest when the waterfalls below 65° F. However, Koi still need sufficient carbohydrates for energy when water temperatures are low. This is particularly true for Koi less than 1 year old. Squash, bread, peas, citrus fruits, and watermelon are good sources of carbohydrates. Never overfeed your fish! Koi do not have a stomach. Feed smaller quantities more frequently for better nutritional absorption. Feed only as much as the fish will eat in about 3-5 minutes. Koi pellets should be fresh and used within three months to prevent the oxidation of the food.
- Koi Medications – Regular observation of your fish will allow problems to be detected early. Being familiar with your fish’s health, normal shape, size, and color as well as swimming habits will help you to keep very healthy fish. A change in any of these factors may signal a problem. The problem must be identified in order to know the steps to take for treatment. Though Koi are extremely hardy, it is very important to keep a watch on their environment to keep them at their healthiest. Attention should be paid to the quality of water and balance of the pond (i.e. pH levels etc.). However, if problems do occur, the first step is to remove the individual fish or decide whether to treat the entire pond. It is sometimes difficult to be aware of a problem with a fish until it’s too late. Be aware of your Koi’s behavior patterns so changes can be detected early. A change in your Koi’s behavior is usually the first sign that your Koi are stressed or ill.
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- Water Treatments – Chlorine and Chloramines Chlorine and chloramines are harmful to fish and will kill the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in the pond. Likewise, they may burn or kill aquatic plants. Chlorine, a volatile gas, will dissipate with water circulation and exposure to the air within one or two days. Chloramines, however, take much longer to break down. City water suppliers are more frequently adding ammonia to combine with chlorine to produce the longer-lasting chloramines. It is not uncommon for city water to test positive for ammonia straight out of the tap. When adding chlorinated water to the pond, spray it in with a hose to provide the necessary aeration for dissipation of the gas. Make sure to use a test kit to monitor your ammonia levels carefully. High ammonia levels cause disease and death. Contaminated Water Run-off water from a nearby stream or collected rainwater may contain toxic insecticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. Rainwater from metal roofs or asbestos shingles will contaminate the pond and may prove toxic to both the fish, and the plants. If the fish display signs of toxicity, execute a 50% water change and/or remove the fish to safe quarters, or a hospital tank until the water has been…
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